Informal Politics: Street Vendors and the State in Mexico City by John Cross.

<H2>INFORMAL CYBERSPACE</H2>

(Back to Tour Depot for more tours)

Street Foods: Urban Food and Employment in Developing Countries by Irene Tinker.

A Cairo Souk

An Egyptian Street Market

By John Cross

Photos by Rebeca Cross

(c) John C. Cross, 1997

SEE COPYRIGHT NOTICE BELOW

The "Souk"...

Picture of a souk

is an open air market that caters regularly to the needs of local residents. This one is located in old Maadi, a suburb to the south of Cairo along the east bank of the Nile river.

The souk has been built up over the years through several periods of reformation. Originally located next to the Maadi railroad station, Cairo municipality built stalls for many of the original vendors when the track was converted into use as a metro line. Alleyway

covered alleyway But new vendors rapidly came to occupy a narrow alleyway between the stalls and the wall of the metro line. By covering the space in between, shaded areas could be made to protect buyers and sellers during the heat of the day.

Subsequently, many stalls also extended out onto other streets, bringing the total number of regular stalls up to about 200. Street scene

A woman at her stall Street vending in Egypt, as in many other Muslim countries, is predominantly male. Women vendors make up only an estimated 20% of this market. Typically, women are concentrated within the market in goods that have low profit margins, and work within low capital limits. This woman, however, seems well established.

Stall holders have the advantage of being able to have larger stocks, and more valuable merchandise, which can be stored in the stall for safety at night. Generally, however, crime is not a problem at this market, as in most of Egypt. Most vendors simply cover their products at night, and a few boys are paid to spend the night in the market to keep an eye on everything. Stall holders

Having a chat over tomatoes Egypt is an intensely social country, a feature possibly augmented by the high population concentration in urban areas. A street market is a perfect place to meet friends and acquaintences while keeping an eye out for bargains or customers. This tomato vendor (right) takes advantage of this fringe benefit of street commerce.

The more established vendors buy their goods at Cairo's wholesale market, which was relocated across the Nile to Giza in 1993. This makes restocking more difficult, so many of the smaller vendors buy their goods from trucks or, in some cases, carts that bring food from the wholesale market or directly from the countryside. A cart

A girl buying food All kinds of people come to the souk to buy their food, but most of the clients are housewives or their daughters. This girl was standing outside a stall, looking at the merchandise.

Police periodically raid the market to get rid of many of the vendors who are here without licenses. When they do, they will take the vendor's merchandise until they pay a fine to get them back. Often, you can even see the vendors riding in the same truck back to the police station to get their merchandise back right away before it spoils. But other times, the police just "co-exist" with the vendors, who will come right back in any case.

These police officers were taking a break at a tea stand in the middle of the market. They didn't seem to want to have their picture taken initially, but after the fact they didn't mind.

A cart

Becky and her vendors My wife, Rebeca, would buy her food regularly in the market, and she took most of these pictures. Here she is flanked by two of her favorite vendors--Nadia (on the right) and her mother.

"Belle of Louisville" by Frank French

courtesy of

John Roache's Ragtime MIDI Library

COPYRIGHT NOTICE:

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HEY! Take a look at the famous Khan il Khalili Bazaar, too! Or, perhaps you would rather view a Mexican Street Market?