You can read about street markets in
Informal Politics: Street Vendors and the State in Mexico City by John Cross.

<H2>INFORMAL CYBERSPACE</H2>

(Back to Tour Depot for more tours)

You can read about this fascinating area in
Historic Cairo: A Walk Through the Islamic City by Jim Antoniu.

Khan il Khalili and Islamic Cairo

By John Cross

Photos by Rebeca Cross

(c) John C. Cross, 1997

SEE COPYRIGHT NOTICE BELOW

Khan Il Khalili

The citadel

Is a traditional bazaar located in the middle of old Islamic Cairo near the Citadel (shown here). The bazaar was originally located next to one of the gates to the old city, built in the 10th century, that led to the important trade routes of the Eastern Desert towards Sinai, the Red Sea and beyond. The bazaar is actually named after a trading house that controled trade to this sector and set up its trading house here.

Gateway to the Khan Because of this history, many of the buildings and walls of Khan Il Khalili date back to the founding of the city itself, including a royal palace. These two gateways attest to the grandure of the market since the early middle ages, when Egypt was at the cross roads of the world. Gateway to the Khan

interior shot The interior of the market provides a maze of small shops that today service primarily the tourist market for local artisan products, ranging from cheap knik-knaks to expensive hand-made furniture and carpets.

Tourists are primarily attracted, of course, by the beautiful and colorful design of the market, built up over hundred of years of vibrant history. The impact of Khan il Khalili on the local tourist industry is so pervasive that artisan crafts are often refered to officially as "Khan il Khalili products."

Cairenes come to Khan il Khalili also, but primarily to buy gold and silver jewelry which is very popular in Egyptian society.

Interior gateway

New stalls built outside Naturally, as the market has grown over the years, vendors have spilt out onto the surrounding streets. These stalls were built by the government to handle some of the overflow.

But even more stalls have popped up since then, covering much of the surrounding neighborhood despite frequent police harassment.

These stalls are set up on a neighboring street in temporary structures, and many more vendors simply sell in the street on tables or from the floor. Generally, they sell cheaper models of Khan il Khalili products, but many also sell garments, textiles and kitchenware for sale to locals.

Street stalls outside

spice market Egypt has also been historically the center of the spice trade, much of which went through Khan il Khalili as well. A part of the bazaar is still dedicated to spices, although this is usually overlooked by tourists.

Like everything else, the spice market has also spilled out into neighboring alleys and streets, as this photo attests.

Food carts also serve the needs of local residents and merchants. Here a vendor is roasting seeds, and seems to be trying to make a sale to some workers in a street close to the Khan.

(Street Food stalls like this are studied in Street Foods: Urban Food and Employment in Developing Countries by Irene Tinker.)

A food cart

local women I couldn't resist adding in this colorful shot of three women walking in the neighborhood, even though I have no idea whether they are customers or merchants or just neighborhood residents (or all of the above).

Egyptian women love to wear floral patterns such as these, and may be seen with a variety of different headdresses, also of different colors.

 

"Baltimore Todolo" by Eubie Blake

courtesy of

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See books on Egypt

HEY! Take a look at a Cairo street market, too! Or, perhaps you would rather view a Mexican Street Market?